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How To Repair A Macbook Charging Cable Near Magnetic Connector

Introduction

This guide will take you, pace by step, through the process of determining if the repair is likely to succeed, and how to reach it

  1. Start by examining the cable for any obvious cracks, holes or exposed wires

    • Start by examining the cablevision for any obvious cracks, holes or exposed wires

  2. Using a multimeter or continuity tester check to see if the pins are shorted

    • Using a multimeter or continuity tester cheque to see if the pins are shorted

    • At that place are five pins in the plug end. The central one is used for signaling but the other four are used to acquit power to the mac. Considering the mag safe adapter is designed to be able to used in any orientation the outer pins (i and 5) are equivalent and should show as connected when using the multimeter.

    • The aforementioned should exist true for the heart pins (2 and four).

    • If all the same any of the other pins announced to be connected, you have a brusk. In this case pins 1 and 2 are shorted.

  3. To remove the plastic cover grasp the metal end using a pair of heavy duty pliers (or in a vice) and use a flat bladed screwdriver to gently lever the cover off To remove the plastic cover grasp the metal end using a pair of heavy duty pliers (or in a vice) and use a flat bladed screwdriver to gently lever the cover off

    • To remove the plastic cover grasp the metallic end using a pair of heavy duty pliers (or in a vice) and utilize a flat bladed screwdriver to gently lever the cover off

  4. The discoloration here suggests we may have found the source of the problem Gently pull the rubber cover away from the head to reveal the connections

    • The discoloration hither suggests nosotros may accept found the source of the problem

    • Gently pull the rubber embrace away from the head to reveal the connections

  5. Having determined the likely source of the problem we need to remove the plug from the wire to see if the charger still works

    • Having determined the probable source of the problem we need to remove the plug from the wire to see if the charger notwithstanding works

  6. Strip the ends of the cable and use a multimeter to check that these leads are no longer shorted

    • Strip the ends of the cable and use a multimeter to check that these leads are no longer shorted

    • If your continuity tester still shows a short, the cable may be damaged elsewhere, cheque over again for whatever signs of harm - maybe y'all only demand to shorten it a few more inches

    • If you can't discover the source of the short outside the adapter, you're going to have to open the adapter itself and proceed there (come across other guides for details on how to attain this)

  7. Assuming you've confirmed the leads are not shorting the next step is to plug the adapter back in and check to see if power is still being delivered

    • Assuming you've confirmed the leads are non shorting the side by side step is to plug the adapter back in and bank check to run across if power is nonetheless being delivered

    • Use a multimeter to check that power is available. it should read around 6.8V DC

    • If you've got power, congratulations, you can continue to repair the plug, otherwise you lot volition need to dig deeper (look for other guides on repairing the adapter itself)

  8. The first step is to carefully cut away the plastic moulding which is probably used as a diffuser for the status LED

    • The first footstep is to carefully cut abroad the plastic moulding which is probably used every bit a diffuser for the condition LED

  9. once the plastic has been cleared away you should see a small green circuit board with the remnants of the wires you cut off earlier still attached

    • once the plastic has been cleared away you lot should see a small green circuit board with the remnants of the wires you cutting off earlier yet attached

    • Use a soldering atomic number 26 to melt and elevator away the old wires

    • Notation: Pay attention to where the leads go so you tin can reconnect them to the aforementioned place when it'southward fourth dimension for re-assembly Only it should be fairly obvious that the shield wire has been split into 2 strands and soldered to the back and front of the circuit board, with the primal wire (covered with a white insulator) connected directly to the bottom left corner of the circuit lath.

  10. Before reattaching the circuit board remember to thread on the plastic cover and rubber grommet

    • Before reattaching the circuit lath retrieve to thread on the plastic cover and rubber grommet

    • Hint: insert a thin nosed pliers into the lesser of the grommet and open slightly to stretch the bottom of the grommet and a metal clamp there to arrive easier to thread the cablevision back through

  11. cut back the outer insulation and divide the exposed shielding into two strands

    • cut back the outer insulation and divide the exposed shielding into two strands

    • then leaving about 2-3mm nevertheless covered remove the white insulating sheath from the key wire

  12. reattach the leads starting with the central (white) strand directly to the PCB

    • reattach the leads starting with the primal (white) strand directly to the PCB

    • Then solder i strand of the shield to the opposite side of the circuit board

    • Flip the plug over and solder the remaining end of the shield to the reverse side

    • Hint: The goal hither is to make sure that the divided shield distributes any strain equally between front and rear sides and avoids straining the primal wire

  13. Snip away any excess shield/solder

    • Snip away whatsoever excess shield/solder

  14. Use the multimeter to check your work;

    • Utilise the multimeter to check your work;

    • pins 1 and 5 should not short with pins ii or 3

    • and you should be able to see +6.8V DC betwixt them

    • If all looks skillful, its time to test with your mac. Even if the LED doesn't light (if might be heat damaged) kick your mac and check the power condition

  15. To finish up;

    • To finish upwardly;

    • slide the grommet dorsum down to the cease of the cablevision and use a pair of pliers to gently clasp the metal clamp close again

    • Optionally seal the PCB with Areldite or maybe hot glue but you lot tin can become past just fine without

    • Slide the plastic encompass back down over your work - it'll probably be tight enough to snap back into place but if not a couple of drops of super glue should exist plenty

Conclusion

If all is well, you should go many more years from your trusty adapter.

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Source: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Repair+an+Apple+Magsafe+Charger+Magnetic+End/6463

Posted by: lafayetteexpregiat.blogspot.com

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